Formaldehyde vs. Formaldhehyde Resin

This is a pretty popular match up on the MUA nail boards, so I thought I would clear things up in a very scientific and boring way.  Get your pillows folks.  I promise to show you something pretty in the beginning and the end though! :)

First a little eye candy:

Color Club - Pucci-licious
2 coats.  I swear I couldn't see that bald spot on my middle finger in person.


Hubba Hubba!  I love this purple. Uh yea, so my camera likes to make it blue.  Rebecca, however, has some nice pictures of it here.  It dries really fast to a semi-matte finish.  I always like to shine it up with topcoat!












Now lets talk about Formaldehyde vs Formaldehyde Resin


Formaldehyde:
The name itself gets used incorrectly constantly.  I myself do it all the time because it is still incorrectly written on many ingredient lists.  So let's clear things up.  Formaldehyde is actually a gas.  It can not exist in your hardener/treatment in this form. Unless you're gassing your nails, wtf does that mean I don't know, it usually exists as a liquid.  Formaldehyde mixed with water makes a totally new compound (with its own physical and chemical properties) called Formalin, or even more accurate Methylene Glycol.  This is the chemical that is put in hardeners and the correct name that companies should be using.  The naming misnomer is a relic of the past, which you can read about further here.     

Formaldehyde gas is the real "poison" that can cause cancer.  However, even then you would have to inhale formaldehyde gas in large doses and for long periods of time.  I am talking about the type of exposure one would get in a formaldehyde manufacturing plant and not from nail treatments/hardeners evaporating.

So unless you have sensitivity to formaldehyde gas don't allow the fear mongering to rule your life.  Do your own research and always use common sense.

Need a nail hardener? This series may be of use.

Formaldehyde Resin:
Formaldehyde Resin (or you may see it on ingredient lists as Tosylamide/Formaldehyde Resin or TSFR) is an ingredient in nail polish used to add flexibility and improves adhesion to the nail plate.

Formaldehyde gas is used in the production of Formaldehyde Resin, however when all is said and done it's a completely different chemical.  There may be traces of formaldehyde gas left in the formaldehyde resin, but they are in the same concentration levels found in some foods, even organic foods.  Uh, yea, so unless you have an allergy to organic grown apples, there is very little health risk (both of the allergy or cancer type). 

Again, do your own research and use common sense. 


The shortest conclusion ever:

Formaldehyde (gas) =/= Formalin =/= Formaldehyde Resin

There is very little in common with these chemicals.  OH if you're confused, =/= means 'does NOT equal', mmm kay?

Eye Candy Time!

That's my cat eating his own foot.

LOL

Nail Hardeners - Nail Conditioning Treatments

OMG, can it be possible that this series is actually coming to a close!?!?! Praise the LORD.  Okay, well I make no promises really, because I am sure I will add subsections to it as I see fit in the future.  In case you missed this annoyingly long series here are the links:

Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde Based Treatments
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part I  
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II
Dimethyl Urea (DMU) based Hardeners - Similar to formaldehyde without allergic or over hardness problems.

Along with Prostrong's Fluoride Nail Treatment and good general nail care there was one other product that helped me eliminate that darn peeling problem. The product is called DermaNail. It's a conditioning treatment. It's not a polish or an oil, but a unique solution with a few interesting ingredients (more on that below).





I feel like DermaNail changed the condition of my nails on a very fundamental level with permanent results, but it was in NO WAY a quick fix.

This product takes time and dedication to work, like any nail care routine.  After all damaged nails have to grow out and as I have mentioned before it takes ~ 6 months for your nail to grow out fully from cuticle to tip.  Hence, I would give it at least this long to see if it works for you. Yea, really, 6 months >.<, now that's dedication!

This product is not well known and I myself happen to randomly stumble across it 10 or so years ago.  One day I was doing some serious Lycos searching for a magic bullet to fix my peeling nail problem.

Aside from all the claims on the box, what really got me was at the time they were giving it away as a free trial if you paid shipping and handling. Oh man I jumped all over that!

Furthermore, it came with a free gift ...

Cutemol:
This is a great hand and nail cream.  I have to warn you though.  One time I put it on and an hour later was like "what the hell is that stink??" Finally I came to realize it was my fingers lol.  It has a unique smell, but IS great at what it does.

I like to leave these little stinky guys all over so that I always have some moisture within reach. 

How it works:
The ingredients in this product that do the dirty work are: butylene glycol (or similar) and acetyl mandelic acid.    The glycol is a humectant.  The chemical structure contains hydrophilic (water loving) groups which help retain water and keep your nails moist (like cake, lol).  The acetyl mandelic acid is an apha hydroxy acid which smooths out (almost like an exfoliant) the nail surface, which consequently prevents nail splitting and peeling.


Similar Products:
There are only two products that I have found to contain similar ingredients,  
1. DermaNail Nail Conditioner
2. NeoCeuticals Nail Conditioner




Warning: THIS IS NOT A QUICK FIX!
The bottle clearly warns that it takes at least 8 - 16 weeks to see improvement.  I definitely attest to that and then some.

How to use:
I have only ever used dermanail and followed the direction on the package (see picture above).

The product comes with this strange delivery system, that in my personal opinion delivers way to much.  Why not a brush? Maybe this is more cost effective?


Anyway, you slap this stuff on your clean dry cuticles (and nail edge if you want) twice a day (once in the day time, once in the evening). Then you avoid washing your hands for 1 hour afterwords.




The directions also suggest applying the Cutemol or your moisturizer of choice after you apply DermaNail. Great suggestion DermaNail! :)

Where to get this treasure?
I don't know why I do this, but whenever I come across something I want my first instinct is always, "how can I get this baby for free??"  So initially that is exactly what I searched for online.  To my luck and surprise the maker, Summers Labs, happen to be running a great deal for DermaNail: a free trial of the product, if you paid shipping and handling.  It was around $5 I think.  So my first couple of bottles I got for free.  Afterwords I started searching for it online.  The normal going rate at the time was ~$23 for 1oz.
(Note: 1oz. will last you about one year with continuous use.)

At some point I realized DermaNail did not require a prescription, but still could never find it in stores.  I, per chance, went behind a pharmacy counter and asked them about it.  They said they didn't carry it on the shelves because it wasn't that popular (obviously not many people knew about it), but they had some in the back or could order it for me.  The first time around I think I got the Wal-Mart pharmacy to order it for me and I only paid ~$15 for it.  I'm guessing this was the price the pharmacy buys it for because other times I had to pay ~$23.

Some time ago, I was running low and happened to have a friend that worked at a pharmacy.  Boy, I found out she could get it for ~$15, so hell yea I stocked up.  Now I have the army you see above, lol.

In terms of being cost effective, DermaNail is cheaper than NeoCeuticals. 

DermaNail ~ $27 per oz.
NeoCeuticals ~ $60 per oz.*

However you can probably find both cheaper by doing a Google search.

*Note: The company who makes NeoCeuticals nail conditioner has informed me that it was discontinued in the US so it is not available on their website; however, it looks like it may still be available for purchase online through other suppliers.

Problems, Side Affects?:

I have probably gone through 4 bottles (off and on) of DermaNail without incident.  Then at some point, only in the last couple of years of use, the skin around my thumbs began to split and crack, but the nail itself was healthy.  This was really strange and my only explanation for it was that I was not following directions properly (i.e. I was not avoiding washing my hands for 1 hour after DermaNail application) AND not properly moisturizing my nails.  However, I have no reservations about using this product again.

I haven't used DermaNail for probably almost two years and my nails are still in great condition.  If they ever started peeling or cracking I would jump back on the DermaNail band wagon in a heart beat. 

Is this product right for you?
I feel like this product would be great for dry, cracked, peeling nails. Obviously its a conditioner so how can you go wrong?!

Furthermore, I also think this would be a great product for very soft and peeling nails in combination with a hardener treatment.  I would however keep the treatments separate just to avoid too much chemical mixing.  First harden up the nail plate for a few weeks with Formaldehyde or Fluoride, then stop the hardening treatment and start DermaNail.

Lastly, this may be a good product for people with ridges or whose nails split at the ridges.  Because one of the active ingredients is an alpha hydroxy acid it has the potential to smooth out these types of nail surfaces and prevent the peel or split.

Overall, I think DermaNail is a great product to add to a good nail care routine as long as you are dedicated and follow the directions  :D




As always ... whether using this product or any other treatment, moisturize like a crazy and your nails will eventually shape up! :D

I have made a video review for this product here.

Nail Hardeners - Dimethyl Urea based treatments

Okay enough laughing people, lets get back to business!  Today's post is a continuation of the Nail Hardener series.  This series is miles long and the other posts are linked below:

Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde Based Treatments
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part I  
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II
Nail Conditioning Treatments and DermaNail Video Review

If you are too lazy to read the other posts (tisk tisk) here is a short summery to make this post make sense.

The goal of healthy strong nails is a balance between nail hardness and flexibility. Hard nails are great, but there is such a thing as over hardening the nail plate. The harder that your nails get the more brittle they become. The nail plate must balance both characteristics, hardness and flexibility, to retain health, stability, and length. We can balance the hardness with nail flexibility by moisturizing and taking a break from nail hardeners intermittently if needed.

Your nail bed is comprised of a protein called keratin. This protein has naturally occurring cross linkages in the filaments which give nails their hardness.  However, not enough cross-links and the nail is very flexible and lacks strength.  One way to create more cross-links in keratin is with the use of formaldehyde (see links above). However, formaldehyde is not for everyone for several reasons (again see links).  A good replacement for formaldehyde based nail hardeners is Dimethyl Urea (DMU) based treatments.

Dimethyl Urea works exactly like formaldehyde in that it creates more cross linkages in the keratin, but has two main advantages:
1. Does not excessively create cross linkages
2. Is not likely to irritate skin

Apparently the cross linkage mechanism is much more controlled and fine tuned and therefore does not excessively harden the nail plate.  You do not need to take intermittent breaks like with formaldehyde (but you be the judge of that).  Always evaluate and re-evaluate your nail situation periodically.

Products containing Dimethyl Urea (DMU):
1. Creative Nail Design (CND):
   Toughen Up

2. Dr. Lewinn's:
   Revitanail Apricot Nail Strengthener
   Renunail Sensitive Pink Nail Strengthener 

I am sure there are smaller brand name companies out there containing Dimethyl Urea as the active ingredient, but I have not come across them easily.  Please feel free to comment if you know of another.

Who should use Dimethyl Urea based treatments? 
People who want an alternative to formaldehyde. Click here to find out if you would be a good candidate for formaldehyde based treatments, hence DMU based treatments.

 And I'm going to leave you with a few words of wisdom ... 

... moisturize your nails like it's your job <------another moisturizing post ... with VIDEO :D

Next Up: Nail Conditioning Treatments DermaNail

Nail Hardeners - Fluoride Based Treatments II

Although this looks like some illicit drug, it's actually calcium fluoride and fits really well into our discussion of Fluoride based nail treatments.  This is part II of that topic. Part I can be found here. Fluoride based nail treatments are part of a greater category of Nail Hardeners.  See links below:









Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part I 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video

Now on to the post ...

There are only a few products that contain fluoride:
ProStrong ProAccelerator Fluoride Nail Strengthener
Barielle - Fortifying Nail Builder
Almay Organic Fluoride Line (these I believe are discontinued, but I still see them online)

It has been a looooong time since I used either the Barielle or Almay ones, but have always gone back to prostrong for various reasons, mainly because it's easy to obtain, use and it works.  Since I prefer Prostrong, I will discuss the Pro Accelerator in greater detail.

Prostrong Pro Accelerator

Application:
I like the Prostrong fluoride accelerator because it's NOT like a nail polish. The treatment is a liquid, alcohol based, and can be applied to either dry clean bare nails or over dried polished nails and the treatment is just as effective.  The alcohol evaporates immediately.  You start off applying it twice a day and can cut back when your desired hardness is achieved. Some people may be concerned about the alcohol base, which can be drying, but that is why I seriously stress moisturizing, both with this treatment and in general nail care.

Problems and Concerns: 
I have used this product (and still do on occasion), but feel, similar to formaldehyde, it can over harden the nail plate. However, I think it takes much longer before a fluoride based treatments over hardens the nail plate vs. formaldehyde based treatments. I would say after about 6-9 months of using Prostrong I start to taper off. As such, it's more difficult to over harden the nail plate with fluoride based treatments.  

I suppose like any nail product there is a chance of skin irritation, but I have never experienced this.


Where I buy it:
In my experience I have found it is best to order off the ProStrong website rather than QVC because it's cheaper (that is unless QVC is having a sale/special). I usually get the "Proaccelerator Mini bottle with Bonus size Refill". It's 0.75oz + 0.125oz for $19.5. That is ~$22 per ounce of product.

Although this product worked for me, not all nail conditions are created equal. The proper choice of treatment must be based on your own nail condition.  In order to determine whether this product can help you see Part I.

Next Up: Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 

Nail Hardeners - Fluoride Based Nail Treatments I

OMG, we have gotten over the hump of the Nail Hardener/Treatment Series. This post will explore 1/2 of the duo that was my "Magic Bullet" ... Fluoride Based Nail Treatments!

This is part I of Fluoride Based Nail Treatments. Part II is linked at the bottom.  The fluoride based nail treatment is part of a greater series on Nail Hardeners that can be found here.

So as you know I like me some home shopping channels. One night I was watching QVC and saw this old lady with nice nails selling this nail strengthening product.

Doris Crary
I was so jealous and amazed. I must have watched the presentations for a year or two (what can I say, I like to torture myself :p), but eventually I ordered because I couldn't hold out any longer.  I was not disappointed. 

I wish I had before and after pictures, but that was so long ago ... before digital cameras 0_o ... at least in my realm of being.




I have tried several of the Prostrong products and kits, but feel you only really need the fluoride accelerator (pictured above) + your own moisturizer of choice. This routine, along with these rules, helped me to eliminate most of my peeling.

How does it work:
Prostrong has the patent, therefore mostly a monopoly, on this technology (sadly). Almay used to have a product similar to this, but I haven't seen it in the store in 7+ years. In short, calcium (Ca) and fluoride (F) make a pretty strong bond as calcium fluoride (Ca-F). (yeay chemistry!) You have naturally occurring calcium in the nail plate, while the fluoride resides in the strengthener. Placing the treatment on your nails creates lots n lots of Ca-F (calcium fluoride) bonds, which in effect hardens the nail plate. This is actually very similar to the way formaldehyde strengtheners work (in idea only); there is no cross linking of keratin with the fluoride treatments.

What type of nail would benefit from this product?
Ideally, nail strength is achieved through a balance of nail hardness and flexibility. If your nail has the following combination of characteristics soft, bends easily, tears and peels (how to determine these things click here) then you could benefit from fluoride treatments since adding hardness to the nail plate will balance out the flexibility already in the nail plate.  Furthermore, it is important to maintain a proper moisture routine during and after treatment as this prevents dry brittle nails.

A single symptom of peeling does not mean this treatment is right for you.  Peeling can result from a whole host of physical trauma or lack of moisture and the exact causes must be determined and analyzed on a case be case basis.  Think about whether you do any of the following things mentioned in this post.  If you are guilty (even if by association only) do your best to correct the problem because after all healthy nails = :D


Nail Hardeners - Fluoride Based Nail Treatments part II will discuss - Prostrong application, fluoride based treatments problems and concerns, other fluoride containing treatments, and where to find them.

Here is part II of Fluoride based treatments 

Here are links to the other parts in the series:
Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video Review of DermaNail

Nail Hardeners - with Moisturizers!

This is the longest series of my life! Gosh is this even half way yet? Sheeeeesh.

Okay on to the post.  This category is the 4th in my series about Nail Hardeners/Treatments and has got to be the one with the largest selection of products. After all, we are taking staples and making them better with moisture!

What are the staples you ask? Please visit the previous posts:
Formaldehyde Base Hardeners
Are formaldehyde base hardeners right for you?
Protein Base Nail Treatments
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Treatments

Not only will you find out about how these things work, but it will help you determine which treatment may be right for your current nail condition.






The only way to know the type of treatment you have in hand is by reading some ingredient lists.  I have mentioned already what "staple" words to look for (in previous posts), but what about "moisturizers"?

Here are the ingredients that add moisture to your treatment and what words you should keep an eye out for:

Dimethicone
Calcium Pantothenate
Tocopheryl Acetate (vit. E)
Water (Aqua)
Panthenol
Avacado Oil
Carthamus Tinctorius (safflower) Seed Oil
As well as other oils

This is not an exhaustive list and I would encourage you to read those labels and ingredient lists!




Now on to the PRODUCTS .... and there are A LOT of them.

Here is a list of products: (again not exhaustive)

Formaldehyde + Protein + Moisturizer:

Nail Tek HYDRATION THERAPY II
Nail Tek HYDRATION THERAPY III
Nail Tek HYDRATION THERAPY IV
Nail Tek - Intensive therapy II Strengthener (pictured above)
OPI - Nail Envy Soft and Thin Nail Strengthener
OPI - Nail Envy Dry and Brittle
OPI - Nail Envy Original Nail Strengthener


Protein + Moisturizer:
Gelous Nail Gel by American Classics (cult following on MUA)
Nail Tek Citra #2
Nail Life - Nail Revitalizer Treatment Formaldehyde-Free (pictured above)
Sally Hansen Complete Care Extra Moisturizing 4-in-1 Nail Treatment
Dermelect Launchpad Nail Strengthener
Rescue Beauty Lounge - Base Coat
Barielle - Nail Rebuilding Protein
Essie - Trillionails Daily Nutritional Formula to Maintain and Balance
Lippmann Collection - Hard Rock Hydrating Hardener Nail Treatment
Instant Artificials (crazy popular on MUA nail boards)
Poshe Nail-Strengthening Treatment Base Coat
Qtica Growth Stimulator



Formaldehyde + Moisture:
Nail Tek HYDRATION THERAPY I
Nail Life - Revitalizer Treatment Original Formula

Perhaps a reader can help me place another product in the proper category. I keep forgetting to look it up every time I go to Sally Beauty Supply.  I am talking about Gelous Nail Gel (which also has a cult following on MUA) by American Classics. I know it has protein in it, BUT are there any signs of moisture ingredients? Someone, help a sista out!

Next Up: Fluoride based Hardeners part I and part II 

The complete series:

Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nil Treatments Part I

Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video Review of DermaNail

Nail Hardeners - Protein + Formaldehyde Nail Treatments

Back to Nail Treatments! This post, as the title implies, will concentrate on treatments that are solely Protein + Formaldehyde based.

Here are a few posts you may have missed:
Formaldehyde Nail Treatments
Are Formaldehyde Based Treatments right for you?
Protein Based Treatments 

Obviously, this type of treatment combines the power of formaldehyde and protein.  Each one has it's own mechanism for nail strengthening and instead of retyping what I wrote in previous posts I will just point you to the list above. In short, formaldehyde creates cross-linkages between the keratin in your nail plate making it harder, while the protein (often claims to do the same ... I don't buy it until I see scientific proof) offers reinforcement through it's filaments. As for determining weather this type of treatment is right for you ... again I would point you above. In short, thin, very soft, peeling nails may benefit from this type of treatment. However, if your nails are peeling because they are dry, moisturizer may help just the same and formaldehyde may make it worse. 


As with the formaldehyde only based treatments, overuse of Formaldehyde + Protein treatments can cause the keratin in your nail to form too many cross-links and as a result the nail becomes very hard, looses its flexibility and becomes brittle. It's probably best to use this treatment intermittently to avoid brittle nails and possible worsening of your nail's condition (i.e. more chipping, peeling, etc.). As always, moisturizer should play an important role in nail maintenance.

Also, since formaldehyde is a skin irritant, overtime people can build up an allergy. Skin contact should be avoided.

Now on to examples:
Most treatments of this kind actually contain conditioners so they will have to wait till the next post, but the only one I could find that strictly fits in this category is ...

Nail Magic

  Does anyone want to share their experience? Perhaps your nails condition before and after treatment? 

Next Up: Nail Treatments/Hardeners with Moisturizers! 

The complete series:

Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nil Treatments Part I

Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video Review of DermaNail

Nail Hardeners: Are formaldehyde based hardeners right for you?

I received an email recently from Cristina (from the MUA nail boards) that made me realize I needed to add some information to the Formaldehyde based Nail Hardener post. Check that one out first if you haven't already. The concern in this email was about the safety of formaldehyde based hardeners as well as whether it was the right hardener to use.

First safety:
Usually the amount of formaldehyde in these types of hardeners is 1-3% and they are ALL safe at this level. The only safety issue that I can foresee is allergy related, but at these low concentrations this is usually not a problem. It's a good idea, however, to avoid skin contact to prevent irritation. If you are allergic, so be it and avoid it altogether, before anaphylactic shock sets in ... yikes.

Since these hardeners are relatively safe, I think the next main concern is whether your nail condition needs this type of nail hardener.

Is Formaldehyde based hardener right for you: 
Each person considering a nail hardener needs to evaluate the condition of their nails at the moment. Are your nails soft or hard? Thin or thick? Peeling or cracking? Once you know where you stand you can decide if "formaldehyde based" is suitable for you.

What do I mean by soft or hard?
Are your nails really pliable? When you push down on your nails free edge does it bend easily without much resistance or pretty solid? Check out the schematics to help you determine the answers:

What? You don't have blue fingers? hee hee, I just realized the blue after I made it and it took forever so you'll just have to accept it.  Anyway, let's pretend this is a normal nail at rest.

If you can push down on your nails free edge and it bends easily without much resistance, like the green, they are probably soft. If they provide some resistance, like the red, they are hard. Of course you can have some variability and call it something in between. This is just a guide.




What do I mean by thin or thick?
Pretty self explanatory, I hope.

What do I mean by peeling or cracking?

This shows peeling. (thanks to google)

This is cracking.

I couldn't find a good picture of cracking so this schematic will also have to do. I hate cracks that happened horizontally below the free edge, big ouch. I will put a link here soon, about my preferred method of fixing such a catastrophe. 











Formaldehyde based hardeners are best for soft, peeling thin nails. Your nail plate is made up of a protein called keratin. Keratin is fibrous and has naturally occurring cross linkages between the filaments. Formaldehyde reacts with the keratin in your nail plate and increases the cross linkages between these fibers. As a result, the nail plate becomes harder. These linkages prevent peeling by linking more of the nail plate layers together and makes the nail plate thicker (imagine how thicker those nails in that picture above would be if the nail plate was all fused together and not sloughing off).

There is nothing wrong with formaldehyde based hardeners, as I have already mentioned in the last post, but too many cross links in the keratin causes nail plate brittleness. Some brands have higher concentrations of formaldehyde than others (usually these are trade secrets) and overuse can cause brittleness; therefore, I generally suggest intermittent use of these types of treatments. That way you can get the desired hardness, then back off so the nail doesn't get too brittle. 

If your nails are cracking this could be a sign that your nails are already hard (with plenty of cross linkages in the keratin) but lack flexibility. A formaldehyde based hardener may not be a good idea. Instead, a good moisturizer (oil/balms/butter/cuticle creams) needs to be used frequently throughout the day. A different type of treatment should probably be considered if moisturizing alone doesn't do the trick. More on that in a later post.

If you have thick nails I give you a high five. Nothing wrong with that, except make sure its not some underlying fungus condition. Otherwise, the only down side is more work filing.

If  another combination describes your nails condition, for example: soft and dry (I would imagine this on thin problem nails), then another treatment or combination of treatments may be right for you. I will cover this in greater detail as I go through the different treatments in the series.

A few final words. Whichever treatment you choose, keep in mind that they all takes time to see results. The damaged nail plate has to grow out and the new treated nail plate will eventually surface. The nail plate may take a full six months to grow out from the cuticle to the nail tip.

I hope this addition is helpful to the series.

Edit: There is a difference between formaldehyde and formaldehyde resin.  That post can be found here.

Next post : Protein Nail Treatments


The complete series:

Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nil Treatments Part I
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video Review of DermaNail
Formaldehyde vs. Formaldehyde Resin 

Nail Hardeners

The wonderful world of nail treatments.  Boy back in the day this was it for me.  I loved trying new products,  but since I was a tween/teen/young adult without moola, I would buy one treatment at a time.  I used to save my lunch money, yes we are talking starving for nail polish, and stand in the makeup isle at Wal-mart/CVS/Sally's for hours, reading each and every bottle over and over (ingredients, claims, etc) trying to decide which product would be magic to my nails.  I always used up every bottle and often repurchased to see how and if the ingredients did their magic.  I wanted to know what each ingredient did.  What a weirdo, I know, but now I can tell you what I learned.

I think one of the biggest questions out there is, what is the best nail hardener?  The answer is not a simple one, but this series of posts will try to rationalize the possibilities. This entire series assumes your overall health is good, because no topical nail treatment can help you if you have some underlying illness.

Another very important factor to remember is that nail hardness is not the same thing as flexibility. Hard nails are great because they are strong, but there is such a thing as over hardening the nail plate. The harder that your nails get the more brittle they become. The nail plate must balance both characteristics, hardness and flexibility, to retain health, stability, and length. We can balance the hardness with nail flexibility by moisturizing and taking a break from nail hardeners intermittently if needed (that depends on the type you use)! Furthermore, you will find the healthier the nail plate the longer you nail polish will last (that is if you want it to).

There are, in my mind, only 6 categories of nail hardeners because each category of nail hardener works in essentially the same way.

1. Formaldehyde based - this post and here.
2. Formaldehyde free, protein based
3. A mix of #1. and #2 ... post here.
4. There are three subcategories: post here.
a.) #1 with conditioners, b.) #2 with conditioners, or c.) #3 with conditioners: all here
5. Fluoride based, Part I and Part II
6. Dimethyl Urea based
....................................................
7. Nail Conditioner - DermaNail ( or NeoCeuticals Nail Conditioning Solution)
Video Review for DermaNail

#7 is different, I have not encountered anything else like it on the market.

I would encourage everyone to start reading the ingredients of all your nail products, especially nail treatments, so that you can eliminate similar class products that have not worked for you.  I will take you through the different categories and how they work.  Although, I may mention a few brand names from each category, I do not favor any, rather I favor categories. Personally, I like #2, #5, and #7.
 
Formaldehyde based nail hardeners:

Your nail bed is comprised of a protein called keratin. This protein has naturally occurring cross linkages which give nails their hardness.  However, not enough cross-links and the nail is very flexible and lacks strength.  One way to create more cross-links in keratin is with the use of formaldehyde.

Formaldehyde based nail hardeners are the most common type of nail hardener and contain 1-3 % formaldehyde. (Note: Formaldehyde is not the same as Formaldehyde Resin) Formaldehyde reacts with keratin and creates more cross-linkages.  Bottom line - they work. However, I have two main hang up's with this category.

1. Overtime and overuse of formaldehyde based hardeners causes the keratin to form too many cross-links and as a result the nail becomes very hard, looses its flexibility and becomes brittle.

2. Formaldehyde is a skin irritant and overtime people can build up an allergy.  Skin contact should be avoided.

Overall, these hardeners work, but should be used intermittently to avoid brittle nails and possible worsening of your nail's condition (i.e. more chipping, peeling, etc.). And as always, moisturizer should play an important role in nail maintenance.

EXAMPLES: Do check ingredients to make sure formula's didn't change!
- Nail Tek is a popular brand that salons may recommend
- OPI makes Nail Envy
- There are many many more! Pretty much each brand name has one.
- I have also seen nail hardeners (off brand) at the dollar store, just check the ingredients.

Next up: Are formaldehyde based nail hardeners right for you?