Showing posts with label Protein. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Protein. Show all posts

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Lazy Solutions

There are base coat wearers and base coat ignorers.  What if these two groups of people came together and had a party?  What if in a tragic turn of events the base coat wearers had a momentary lapse in memory and forgot base coat?!  All is not lost.  A good time can be had by all, as long as Dermelect comes to the party.


Dermelect has come out with a new collection of color nail strengthening treatments for the summer.  I had a chance to try 3 of the colors.

Above It














Luxurious

 

 

Persuasive

 

 

 

 

 

 




These polishes are infused with peptides.  Peptides are made of small chains of amino acids (2-20 for example).  In contrast, proteins are large chains of amino acids, greater than 100.  My general view of protein based treatments (or polish) can be found in this post.  In short, I don't believe protein based treatments change the nail plate like formaldehyde, fluoride, DermaNail, and DMU can.  I do believe they can provide a nice layer of protection for as long as it is on top of your nail plate.  

What is interesting to me with these polishes is that because peptides are much smaller, I wonder if they somehow have the ability to interact with the nail plate?  I wonder about this, but have no other insight to give you.

The other tid bit I found interesting is the description of how to use the polish...

"The first coat instantly bonds to the nail, while the second fuses with the base coat to create a flexible web of color that resists chipping and improves brittleness (patent-pending technology)."

Wait, wait!  Are you telling me I can skip base coat??  That would be a fantastic option for my laziness and the ultimate solution for a successful party comprised of base coat wearers and ignorers.  I wrote Dermelect just to make sure that I was correct in my assumption and indeed you can do either or.  As soon as I heard this I ran with it.  *Feel free to click on the pictures to enlarge*

Out of the three, 'Above it' gave me the most trouble.  I did two coats for each polish except this one.  It was a bit thick and after two coats it was still a bit uneven.  I think some thinner will fix it right up.  This was the first coat, no base!



After 3 coats, 'Above It' ended up being a bright baby blue that is definitely eye catching.  I really enjoyed wearing this color.  

In direct sunlight.




This blue still manages to look bright in the shade.



The first coat of 'Luxurious' went on smooth and I only needed two coats to make it look flawless.  Again, I wore no base coat.







My camera makes Luxurious look a bit blue, but I guarantee it is lavender purple.  You'll be able to see it more clearly in the comparison pictures in the next post.





Lastly, here is Persuasive in full sun.  What an interesting color.  It is described as peach, but I noticed it tends to morph between pink and peach depending on the lighting.







 Indirect sunlight makes Persuasive look bright light pink.






More shade makes Persuasive look more peach ... and makes my skin look dirty. lol  

OPI's Mimosas for Mr. & Mrs. also has this distinction.





Aside from giving me "dirty skin syndrome", I liked the formula.






You know how I feel about stains?  Look here, here, and here for major stains and how I remedy them.  However, none of that was necessary.  None these colors left any sort of stains. Woot!

Conclusion:
I must admit, I thoroughly enjoyed skipping base coat for once.  It was very freeing.  I'm usually the type to wear two layers of base to prevent stains, so skipping this step allowed for frivolous dilly-dallying.  If you are looking for a Dermelect base coat, I reviewed their Anti-aging Ridge Filler in an earlier post, but as always feel free to use what works for you!

My absolute favorite out of the three polishes was Above it, even if the formula was a bit thick.  It was so bright, cheerful and compliment worthy.

This is the first color collection for Dermelect's color nail treatments, so I wouldn't expect the color range to be especially cutting edge, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't have appreciated a surprise.  The colors are basic and as I will show in the next post, dupable.  I'm interested to see if their next collection keeps it safe.

These three polishes, along with 3 others, can be found on the Dermelect webiste.  
$14/0.4 fl. oz. 

 *Sent for review* 

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Nail Hardeners - Fluoride Based Treatments II

Although this looks like some illicit drug, it's actually calcium fluoride and fits really well into our discussion of Fluoride based nail treatments.  This is part II of that topic. Part I can be found here. Fluoride based nail treatments are part of a greater category of Nail Hardeners.  See links below:









Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part I 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video

Now on to the post ...

There are only a few products that contain fluoride:
ProStrong ProAccelerator Fluoride Nail Strengthener
Barielle - Fortifying Nail Builder
Almay Organic Fluoride Line (these I believe are discontinued, but I still see them online)

It has been a looooong time since I used either the Barielle or Almay ones, but have always gone back to prostrong for various reasons, mainly because it's easy to obtain, use and it works.  Since I prefer Prostrong, I will discuss the Pro Accelerator in greater detail.

Prostrong Pro Accelerator

Application:
I like the Prostrong fluoride accelerator because it's NOT like a nail polish. The treatment is a liquid, alcohol based, and can be applied to either dry clean bare nails or over dried polished nails and the treatment is just as effective.  The alcohol evaporates immediately.  You start off applying it twice a day and can cut back when your desired hardness is achieved. Some people may be concerned about the alcohol base, which can be drying, but that is why I seriously stress moisturizing, both with this treatment and in general nail care.

Problems and Concerns: 
I have used this product (and still do on occasion), but feel, similar to formaldehyde, it can over harden the nail plate. However, I think it takes much longer before a fluoride based treatments over hardens the nail plate vs. formaldehyde based treatments. I would say after about 6-9 months of using Prostrong I start to taper off. As such, it's more difficult to over harden the nail plate with fluoride based treatments.  

I suppose like any nail product there is a chance of skin irritation, but I have never experienced this.


Where I buy it:
In my experience I have found it is best to order off the ProStrong website rather than QVC because it's cheaper (that is unless QVC is having a sale/special). I usually get the "Proaccelerator Mini bottle with Bonus size Refill". It's 0.75oz + 0.125oz for $19.5. That is ~$22 per ounce of product.

Although this product worked for me, not all nail conditions are created equal. The proper choice of treatment must be based on your own nail condition.  In order to determine whether this product can help you see Part I.

Next Up: Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Nail Hardeners - Fluoride Based Nail Treatments I

OMG, we have gotten over the hump of the Nail Hardener/Treatment Series. This post will explore 1/2 of the duo that was my "Magic Bullet" ... Fluoride Based Nail Treatments!

This is part I of Fluoride Based Nail Treatments. Part II is linked at the bottom.  The fluoride based nail treatment is part of a greater series on Nail Hardeners that can be found here.




So as you know I like me some home shopping channels. One night I was watching QVC and saw this old lady with nice nails selling this nail strengthening product.














Doris Crary
I was so jealous and amazed. I must have watched the presentations for a year or two (what can I say, I like to torture myself :p), but eventually I ordered because I couldn't hold out any longer.  I was not disappointed. 

I wish I had before and after pictures, but that was so long ago ... before digital cameras 0_o ... at least in my realm of being.




I have tried several of the Prostrong products and kits, but feel you only really need the fluoride accelerator (pictured above) + your own moisturizer of choice. This routine, along with these rules, helped me to eliminate most of my peeling.

How does it work:
Prostrong has the patent, therefore mostly a monopoly, on this technology (sadly). Almay used to have a product similar to this, but I haven't seen it in the store in 7+ years. In short, calcium (Ca) and fluoride (F) make a pretty strong bond as calcium fluoride (Ca-F). (yeay chemistry!) You have naturally occurring calcium in the nail plate, while the fluoride resides in the strengthener. Placing the treatment on your nails creates lots n lots of Ca-F (calcium fluoride) bonds, which in effect hardens the nail plate. This is actually very similar to the way formaldehyde strengtheners work (in idea only); there is no cross linking of keratin with the fluoride treatments.

What type of nail would benefit from this product?
Ideally, nail strength is achieved through a balance of nail hardness and flexibility. If your nail has the following combination of characteristics soft, bends easily, tears and peels (how to determine these things click here) then you could benefit from fluoride treatments since adding hardness to the nail plate will balance out the flexibility already in the nail plate.  Furthermore, it is important to maintain a proper moisture routine during and after treatment as this prevents dry brittle nails.

A single symptom of peeling does not mean this treatment is right for you.  Peeling can result from a whole host of physical trauma or lack of moisture and the exact causes must be determined and analyzed on a case be case basis.  Think about whether you do any of the following things mentioned in this post.  If you are guilty (even if by association only) do your best to correct the problem because after all healthy nails = :D


Nail Hardeners - Fluoride Based Nail Treatments part II will discuss - Prostrong application, fluoride based treatments problems and concerns, other fluoride containing treatments, and where to find them.

Here is part II of Fluoride based treatments 

Here are links to the other parts in the series:
Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video Review of DermaNail

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Nail Hardeners - with Moisturizers!

This is the longest series of my life! Gosh is this even half way yet? Sheeeeesh.





Okay on to the post.  This category is the 4th in my series about Nail Hardeners/Treatments and has got to be the one with the largest selection of products. After all, we are taking staples and making them better with moisture!

What are the staples you ask? Please visit the previous posts:
Formaldehyde Base Hardeners
Are formaldehyde base hardeners right for you?
Protein Base Nail Treatments
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Treatments

Not only will you find out about how these things work, but it will help you determine which treatment may be right for your current nail condition.






The only way to know the type of treatment you have in hand is by reading some ingredient lists.  I have mentioned already what "staple" words to look for (in previous posts), but what about "moisturizers"?





Here are the ingredients that add moisture to your treatment and what words you should keep an eye out for:

Dimethicone
Calcium Pantothenate
Tocopheryl Acetate (vit. E)
Water (Aqua)
Panthenol
Avacado Oil
Carthamus Tinctorius (safflower) Seed Oil
As well as other oils

This is not an exhaustive list and I would encourage you to read those labels and ingredient lists!




Now on to the PRODUCTS .... and there are A LOT of them.

Here is a list of products: (again not exhaustive)

Formaldehyde + Protein + Moisturizer:

Nail Tek HYDRATION THERAPY II
Nail Tek HYDRATION THERAPY III
Nail Tek HYDRATION THERAPY IV
Nail Tek - Intensive therapy II Strengthener (pictured above)
OPI - Nail Envy Soft and Thin Nail Strengthener
OPI - Nail Envy Dry and Brittle
OPI - Nail Envy Original Nail Strengthener


Protein + Moisturizer:
Gelous Nail Gel by American Classics (cult following on MUA)
Nail Tek Citra #2
Nail Life - Nail Revitalizer Treatment Formaldehyde-Free (pictured above)
Sally Hansen Complete Care Extra Moisturizing 4-in-1 Nail Treatment
Dermelect Launchpad Nail Strengthener
Rescue Beauty Lounge - Base Coat
Barielle - Nail Rebuilding Protein
Essie - Trillionails Daily Nutritional Formula to Maintain and Balance
Lippmann Collection - Hard Rock Hydrating Hardener Nail Treatment
Instant Artificials (crazy popular on MUA nail boards)
Poshe Nail-Strengthening Treatment Base Coat
Qtica Growth Stimulator



Formaldehyde + Moisture:
Nail Tek HYDRATION THERAPY I
Nail Life - Revitalizer Treatment Original Formula

Perhaps a reader can help me place another product in the proper category. I keep forgetting to look it up every time I go to Sally Beauty Supply.  I am talking about Gelous Nail Gel (which also has a cult following on MUA) by American Classics. I know it has protein in it, BUT are there any signs of moisture ingredients? Someone, help a sista out!

Next Up: Fluoride based Hardeners part I and part II 

The complete series:

Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nil Treatments Part I

Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video Review of DermaNail

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Nail Hardeners - Protein + Formaldehyde Nail Treatments

Back to Nail Treatments! This post, as the title implies, will concentrate on treatments that are solely Protein + Formaldehyde based.



Here are a few posts you may have missed:
Formaldehyde Nail Treatments
Are Formaldehyde Based Treatments right for you?
Protein Based Treatments 

Obviously, this type of treatment combines the power of formaldehyde and protein.  Each one has it's own mechanism for nail strengthening and instead of retyping what I wrote in previous posts I will just point you to the list above. In short, formaldehyde creates cross-linkages between the keratin in your nail plate making it harder, while the protein (often claims to do the same ... I don't buy it until I see scientific proof) offers reinforcement through it's filaments. As for determining weather this type of treatment is right for you ... again I would point you above. In short, thin, very soft, peeling nails may benefit from this type of treatment. However, if your nails are peeling because they are dry, moisturizer may help just the same and formaldehyde may make it worse. 


As with the formaldehyde only based treatments, overuse of Formaldehyde + Protein treatments can cause the keratin in your nail to form too many cross-links and as a result the nail becomes very hard, looses its flexibility and becomes brittle. It's probably best to use this treatment intermittently to avoid brittle nails and possible worsening of your nail's condition (i.e. more chipping, peeling, etc.). As always, moisturizer should play an important role in nail maintenance.

Also, since formaldehyde is a skin irritant, overtime people can build up an allergy. Skin contact should be avoided.

Now on to examples:
Most treatments of this kind actually contain conditioners so they will have to wait till the next post, but the only one I could find that strictly fits in this category is ...

Nail Magic
  Does anyone want to share their experience? Perhaps your nails condition before and after treatment? 

The complete series:

Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nil Treatments Part I

Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video Review of DermaNail

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Nail Hardeners: Protein Based Treatments

The second classification in my series of Nail hardeners are Protein based nail treatments.
I have to admit I don't even like to put protein containing polish/treatments into the hardener category. From a science perspective, I don't believe they work the way some describe, but I do love them.

How do they work?

Your nail bed is comprised of a protein called keratin. This protein has naturally occurring cross linkages in the filaments which give nails their hardness.  However, not enough cross-links and the nail is very flexible and lacks strength.  As I have mentioned already, one way to create more cross-links in keratin is with the use of formaldehyde. However, formaldehyde is not for everyone. You can check out why that may be here.


The thought behind protein based treatments is that the protein supposedly helps make further cross links in your own nail bed keratin. I have not seen any real science to prove this claim, so I don't buy it.  I do however, like them because protein is essentially long chains of filaments. When these filaments are layered on top of the nail plate I do believe it gives topical protection to the nail plate. I made a graphic to explain this. Imagine the blue sticks as tooth picks and they are the building blocks to a structure. The thick red block is a weight on top of the structure.    




From an engineering perspective you can have strength in either the vertical or horizontal direction. If you stack in the horizontal direction you have lots of strength. If you place a weight on top it will be supported easily. The down side is each building unit adds weight and may havve building cost disadvantages; the weight and cost may not be as relevant to nail care, but I'm just saying.  In the vertical direction you also have strength, but an obvious stress point. One way to reinforce the structure is add cross beams.  Now, what the heck does this have to do with protein based nail strengtheners/nail treatments??! Here are a few pics of protein polymers filaments.
I hope you see how a protein based treatment can add reinforcement to your nail bed, at least topically.








A few examples of protein based nail treatments and base coats (this list is not extensive, just what I have come across and includes protein based polishes without moisturizing agents. The protein + moisturizer combo will be covered in the next post in this series):

Essie - Protein Basecoat Nail Fortifier
Nailtiques - Formula I Maintenance for Healthy Nails
Nailtiques - Formula II Treatment for Soft, Peeling, Weak, Bitten or Thin Nails (formulation ca. 2006 may have had formaldehyde)
Nailtiques - Formula II Plus Treatment for Excessive Problem Nails
Nailtiques - Protein Formula III Care for Naturally Hard, Dry Nails

There are more, just look for ingrediensts like, keratin, hydrolyzed protein/keratin, soy protein,  wheat protein, etc. Proteins can be extracted from many sources hence the difference in names.

Other ingredients can have this same type of effect. For example, nylon and silk have similar properties, so if for some reason you don't like or allergic those other proteins, these may be an option. Nylon is a synthetic polymer while silk naturally occurring protein fiber.

Even more ingredients in nail polish can provide similar protection and I will do a separate post going through what ingredients do what in another post.

None protein based strengthening type treatments:
Barielle Hydrating Ridge Filler (contains Nylon)
Sally Hansen with Nylon 
Sally Hansen Complete Care for Dry Brittle Nails Extra Moisturizing 4-in1 Treatment (this actually has protein, nylon, and moisturizers and I shouldn't even listed here, but in the next post about protein based treatments with moisturizers.)

Protein based treatments are good, but I prefer them with moisturizers, so that they can give me reinforcement and moisture. :) Keep in mind that your nail "situation" is different from someone else so make judgment calls based on that. 


Next up: Mix of Protein and Formaldehyde


Other posts you may have missed:
Formaldehyde based treatments
Are formaldehyde treatments right for you?
Protein + Moisturizers, Formaldehyde + Protein + Moisturizers, Formaldehyde + Moisturizers 

The complete series:
Categories of Hardeners and Formaldehyde
Are Formaldehyde Hardeners right for you?
Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde + Protein Based Hardeners
Formaldehyde or Protein Based Hardeners + Moisturizers
Fluoride Based Nil Treatments Part I
Fluoride Based Nail Treatments Part II 
Dimethyl Urea Base Hardeners 
Nail Conditioners Post or Video Review of DermaNail